Chibougamau Camping 1974

TRIP REPORT

A CHIBOUGAMAU ADVENTURE by Karl Lukens

We had just completed checking in at the North Gate of Chibougamau Reserve where we “negotiated” with a “chinese”-french Quebec Park employee, with some difficulty. We were busy packing our canoes in the bright sunshine of a day that had started out with rain. We had left John Buck’s house on Friday August 16th, 1974 at 6:00 PM , Plattsburg, NY at 2:15 AM, and passed through Montreal at 3:15 AM. Arrived at Trois Rivieres at 5:15 AM, and La Tuque at 7:15 AM for breakfast at a small cafe. We passed Roberval at 10:00 AM and had lunch at Notre Dame de la Dore at 11:00 AM. We hit the south gate at noon (the check-in) and were at the north gate at 2:15 PM. The crew consisted of four canoes, eight fishermen, and their gear. The group consisted of Chip Walters, Rick Gimbel, Bert Filemyr, John Buck, Johnny Buck, Jr., Warren Marley, Bill Watkins, and Karl Lukens. We were driving Warren’s truck, and John’s station wagon.

Saturday, August 17 - Gear loaded and a 45-minute paddle with one rapids brought us to our first campsite at 5:00 o’clock PM. It was a sandy beach south of Lac La Blanche. Areas were quickly cleared for our two tents while Karl and Bert, our two cooks, fabricated a table. While dinner was being prepared the rest of the group tried their luck at fishing from the banks and from canoes. Dinner, a freeze-dried, one-pot meal of beef and rice was ready in about 30 minutes and was preceded by a warm Gin cocktail - - the first sip not good, kind of like drinking Coleman lantern fluid. The second taste was pretty good! By then, everyone but Chip responded to the dinner call. As we finished dinner, Chip came running down the sandy beach, breathless and mumbling something about the big fish he had caught. He told of walking along the shore above the rapids and hooking into a large Pike. After battling the fish for 15 minutes, he managed to land it and measure it against his fishing rod. It was too heavy to carry back to camp so, wishing to do no harm to the fish, he released it. Of course when we quizzed him in disbelief, he said, “ it’s true, smell my hands”. We told him it didn’t smell like a very big one! Chip’s first fish of the trip turned out to be a 41-inch Northern Pike, probably 16-18 lbs.!

While Chip was eating dinner and relating his story to all our amusement, Bill, who had already finished was casting from the shore right in front of our camp. I guess inspired by Chip’s tale of the giant fish. Suddenly, as his DareDevil Spoon came into view in two feet of water, not 5 feet from the shore, the water erupted and the spoon disappeared in the gaping mouth of a Northern Pike. Everyone just sat staring at the water as the pike’s tail broke the surface and then disappeared into the deep. Ten minutes later, Bill was measuring and weighing a 38 inch-15lb. Pike which he then released. Everyone was thinking – not a bad way to start our fishing trip with the first two fish going 41 and 38 inches. We finally settled down, cleaned up the campsite, and fished from our canoes below the rapids. Warren and Rick saw a Cow Moose and two calves while they were fishing down stream a ways. We all caught fish. The Northern Pike were in the 20-26 inch range and the Walleyes ran from 14-18 inches. Our total for the evening was compiled as we sat by the campfire with the Milky Way standing out in the crisp clear sky. We totaled 17 Pike and 5 Walleyes for the short day.

Sunday, August 18 - We arose at 8:00 AM to a clear, cool day. After breakfast of juice, eggs and bacon, and coffee we fished our way along 6 miles of river and lakes, stopping below each of the 6 rapids to fish the deep water for Walleyes. Only on one shallow rapids did we have to get out and drag our canoes. Wet boots are standard procedure for this type of canoeing. The big fish so far this morning was a 35 inch –12lb. Pike caught by Johnny Buck below the shallow rapids.

As we pulled into shore to prepare lunch, a Northern Pike grabbed hold of Karl’s spoon that was reeled in, dangling halfway out of the water along side the canoe. After releasing the fish, we ate lunch (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and bug juice) and talked about the fabulous fishing we were enjoying. We decided to eat filet of Walleye for dinner and by the time we reached the Arbor Vitae Campsite on Lac Jourdain, we had 8 Walleye on the stringer, including one 26-inch, 5 lb. fish. After a delicious dinner , preceded by Martinis with ice (thanks to a cooler with dry ice which also contained our steaks), we all we all agreed that Walleye is indeed one of the finest tasting fresh water fish.

Later in the evening we all sat around the campfire and ate steamed fresh water clams with drawn butter. We had collected a pot full of these “tasty” mollusks during our early evening fishing period. We all turned in early in preparation for our 4-mile paddle across Lac Nicabau. An unfavorable wind could make the crossing extremely difficult.

Monday, August 19 - Today, after an 8:00 AM breakfast of pancakes and bacon, we were on the water by 9:30 AM, and on Lac Nicabau by 11:00 o’clock. The wind was gentle and the paddle easy. Rick had stopped paddling and decided to try a few casts while he rested. On his third cast he hooked into a big fish which turned out to be a 32-inch Northern. Bert caught a smaller one and we continued on across the lake, toward the maze of shallows and grass which lead to the Normandin River. As we approached the end of the maze, we came upon a deep hole that looked very fishy. Almost immediately we all had a hit on our spoons. Only one fish was caught and that on a small CP Swing spinner. It was an 18-inch Chub about 2lbs. We all switched to spinners or jigs and immediately caught fish. Three quarters of an hour later, we left the “Chub Hole” after releasing 36 Chub and 5 Walleyes. The Chub ranged from 15-18 inches and put up a good fight on light tackle. Camp “Birch Bark” was only one mile above this spot so we were setting up camp and cooking dinner while we spoke of the unusual fishing we had just experienced. Dinner was a treat of Filet Mignon, Baked potato, and hearts of lettuce with Russian dressing. Cocktails this evening were whiskey sours (with ice). Fresh baked brownies rounded out the meal.

After dinner it was again time to fish. Rick and Chip paddled ¾ of the way up the rapids but couldn’t quite make it. As they swung back down the rapids, they hit a boulder and almost upset. They had to jump out to save the canoe. Both were soaked. We all caught several more fish, both Walleye and Northerns. Bill and Karl got several on surface plugs along the shore and over weed beds. The total for the trip so far is 70 Pike, 32 Walleye, and 36 Chub. (Also of interest as special incidents for the day, Bill lost his watch while swimming at the campsite area.) The night was clear and cool and at about 9:00 o’clock the Northern Lights began. What followed was a spectacular display. Curtains of greens, whites, reds, and violets flashed across the sky. We sat in the dark, in our canoes, in the middle of the lake and watched and watched for an hour. Back on shore again we watched as the display increased in size, color and intensity until 1:00 o’clock in the morning. It was fantastic. Totals for the day – 26 Pike, 14 Walleye, 36 Chub.

Tuesday, August 20 - The following day we were up at 8:00 AM with a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon. We paddled toward Lac Poutrincourt 10 miles away. The wind was against us and getting stronger. After dragging the rapids, we fished and paddled all morning, ate lunch – Hudson Bay Bread and Bug Juice, and continued on. Along the way John found a good pike weed bed and caught 7 on a weedless Johnson Silver Minnow spoon. Later we all had good fishing in a deep hole where we caught 10 Walleyes and kept them on a stringer for dinner. Finally, while crossing a larger lake, Rick again threw out his spoon and in a matter of minutes he had tied into a large Northern. Twenty minutes later he lifted a 41-inch, 18 lb. fish from the water. It was a really nice Pike. We continued after releasing the pike and made our next campsite at 4:30PM. The site was on a portage above roaring rapids. We set up camp and Chip started filleting the Walleyes. A short time later Chip called us to bring our cameras. When we got to the rapids where he was doing the filleting, Chip pointed to the fish scraps and told us to watch. Soon a Mink appeared from between the rocks and cautiously advanced toward the fish scraps. He came to within 4 feet of Chip, picked up some fish and ran off to the stream bank where he disappeared in the rocks. In 5 minutes he repeated the performance. This went on for half an hour while we all watched and took pictures. It was then time for our Walleye fillet fish dinner, with macaroni and cheese, corn, and chocolate pudding for dessert. It turned out to be delicious. We caught more fish after dinner, and later sat up by the rapids, relaxed, and told fish stories. No Northern Lights tonight. Totals for the day – 26 pike, 10 walleye.

Wednesday, August 21 - We laid over today and fished all day. It was clear and hot-88 degrees and windy. Breakfast was pancakes and bacon. We all bathed in the waters below the rapids. It was like a whirlpool bath, very refreshing. Later the skies began to get cloudy. We fished towards Lac Poutrincourt, ate lunch of salami and cheese and raisons. Fishing was rather slow. Cocktail hour consisted of lemonade gin rickies, with cashews. This was followed by the meal, which consisted of beef stroganoff. Fresh made Crepes and jelly made the day look better. We were in bed at 10:00 PM tonight. We hoped we would not have wind and rain for our return to “Birch Bark” camp. Totals for the day – 37 pike, 9 walleye.

Thursday, August 22 - The next morning was partly sunny and the wind was with us. We ate our scrambled eggs and ham, broke camp and headed back to camp Birch Bark. We had several hours of running with the wind so we decided to sail using a 10’ x12’ fly for a sail for each two canoes. It worked well, however, later after lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, the wind became variable and we had to lower our sails in order to make time. It was now very cloudy. Chip caught a 35-inch Pike above the rapids while the rest of us caught the average 22-26 inch pike. We then shot the rapids successfully and pulled into Birch Bark campsite just as the first drops of rain began falling. Tents and dining fly went up quickly. Dinner of Shrimp Creole was started and a reflector fire was made for baking brownies. After dinner we did some fishing in the rain. John caught a clam on a daredevil! We went to bed early. Totals for the day – 37 pike, 25 walleye, 2 chub, 1 clam!

Friday August 23 - It was still drizzling and foggy when we got up at 8:30 this morning. We ate breakfast of oatmeal and pancakes (needed carbs for warmth and energy), broke camp, and got ready to head back across Nicabau. Chip entertained the rest of us by falling in the water off our makeshift dock. He did it in slow motion ( we even had time to get a camera, but no time to help Chip) and it was amusing to everyone but Chip.

With half a mile to go across Nicabau the rains really let loose. A flash of lightning caused us to move in high gear and we were soon on shore waiting for the rain, thunder, and lightning to pass on. That’s the last time Karl would say “we’re almost there, let it thunder all it wants”. We arrived at camp #2 -Arbor Vitae- and set up in the rain. We were all cold and damp. We all felt much better after Bert and Karl served Whiskey Sours and Shrimp cocktail to start off the evening meal, which consisted of hamburgers, mashed potatoes, green beans and peas. Later that evening we again fished in the misty rain. Bert caught 3 right in front of the camp on a surface plug. Our total fish for the trip was now 200 Pike, 93 Walleyes, 46 Chub, and 1 Yellow Perch.

During the night the rains stopped and the wind started blowing from the North, the direction we had to go in order to reach base camp at the North Gate. It was going to be tough paddling.

Saturday, August 24 - Dark clouds still threatened rain as we cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon, and oatmeal, and broke camp for the last time. The paddle into the wind up Lac Jourdain was difficult. Patches of clear sky that could be seen through the clouds encouraged us, but rain soon started again. By the time we passed the first rapids the rain had stopped and the wind abated somewhat. We fished a while and did very well on Walleyes. It was here that John’s reel broke down and after struggling to fix it for half an hour while the rest of us caught fish, he took it off the rod and threw it in the deep rapids. He then used Chip’s spare reel, and began catching fish with the rest of us. By the time we reached the series of rapids below our first campsite, the clouds had broken and the sun made its first appearance in two days. We ate lunch of salami and cheese on the rocks by the rapids. Bert caught a 4 ¾ lb. Walleye, while the rest of us caught 1 ½ - 3 lb. Walleyes and Northern Pike. Karl and Bill each caught 30-inch Northerns. Our last day was a fishing bonanza. However, we had to stop fishing at about 2:30 PM so that we could paddle up Lac La Blanche and arrive at the North Gate in time to check out, pack up the vehicles, change clothes, and wash up for the long trip home. We arrived at the North Gate at 4:45 PM. It was clear and sunny as we checked out, packed up, and washed up for the long ride home. We left the North gate at 5:55 PM. Our total fish for the day were 39 Walleyes, 33 Pike, and 1 Chub. On the way home a stop (2:00 AM) at a Greek eatery below Trois Rivieres was interesting, especially the Pizza “complete” which had everything on it imaginable. Home at John’s house at 1:45 PM Sunday 25th.

For the whole trip we caught 233 Northern Pike, 132 Walleyes, 46 Chub, and 1 Perch. Included in this total were two 41-inch, 18 lb. Pike, a 38-inch, 15 lb. Pike, two 35-inch, 12 lb. Pike, one 32-inch, 12 lb. Pike, and about 8-10 30-inch, 6 lb. Pike. The largest Walleye was caught by Warren and weighed 5 lbs. (26-inches). This was followed by Bert’s 4 ¾ lb. and Karl’s 4 lb. (23-inch) fish. It was a fine trip for everyone; the big fish, the beautiful North woods, the canoeing, the food, and Northern Lights. Many a story will be told about the trip to CHIBOUGAMAU!