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	TEXAS 2006 Hill Country Big Bend NP Davis Mountains
Bert Filemyr, Connie Goldman, Karl Lukens, Art McMorris, Ann Scott

Texas Trip Report by Connie Goldman
April/May 2006

Five friends, Bert Filemyr, Karl Lukens, Connie Goldman, Ann Scott and Art McMorris, planned an 11-day birding trip to Texas. We would visit the Hill Country, the Concan area, Del Rio, Big Bend National Park, the Davis Mountain area and points east on a return trip to San Antonio. While we would focus on some target species, we would bird various spots along our trip route, trying to maximize our Texas bird sightings.

Day 1 Monday April 24th

In preparation for trip departure, Karl had spent the night at Bert’s home. By 3:50 am, the two were met there by Connie, and by 4:00 am the three of us were on the road to the airport. There we were met by Ann and Art. With our plane fully loaded and ready to take off near 6:15am, our luck took a turn for the worse. Engine trouble was announced. Within a short time, all passengers were asked to leave the plane, and we found ourselves back in the terminal. Our prospects for early birding in San Antonio area were quickly being dashed. Hours of waiting confirmed our suspicion that we would not get in much birding today. Art wisely used some of this time to catch up on sleep, nodding off while seated on the floor of busy departure gate area. Only after the assertive “nudging” of airline employees by Bert, were we switched to another airline. We left Philadelphia at 1:00pm, seven hours later than our original schedule. With a connecting flight to Atlanta, we finally arrived in San Antonio at 7:00pm. Quick car rental and baggage retrieval only left time for birding the highways en route to our first night’s lodging in Kerrville. As we drove, we were able to get 12 species of birds, including our first trip Cattle Egrets, White-face Ibis, and numerous Scissor-tailed Flycatchers. We arrived at our hotel by 9pm, did a quick list and settled in for a night’s sleep. Though we had had a disappointing first trip day, we were all in good spirits and ready to bird enthusiastically to make up for lost time in the field!

Day 2 Tuesday April 25th

Eager to get our trip seriously underway, we were up, ate breakfast at our hotel and were on the road by 6:15am. Tony Gallucci, our local contact in the Hill Country area, met us near Kerrville and escorted us to our first stop for the day. This roadside area along the south fork of the Guadalupe River at Lynx Haven was a beautiful example of Hill Country habitat. Ashe junipers, oaks and other mixed hardwood trees grew on either side of the road, and a small river crossing provided some wet habitat for us to explore. We walked a stretch of the road, eager to spot Golden-cheeked Warbler, one of our target species for the day. We soon began to appreciate Tony’s expert knowledge of local natural history. We listened and looked primarily for birds, but he also pointed out Rain Lilies and Salvia growing along the road, and other flora and fauna of the area. Before long we heard the song of the Golden-cheeked, and soon all got good looks at this much-desired warbler. Among other birds we identified here were White-eyed Vireo, Orange-crowned, Yellow-rumped and Nashville Warbler. Blue Grosbeaks foraged in low grass, and a large white shape in the tree-tops proved to be a Great Egret, not commonly seen in this area, according to Tony. We then drove into the town of Hunt for coffee, encountering Scissor-tailed Flycatchers on wires and Barn Swallows overhead. Our next destination point would be the Kerr Wildlife Management Area. Along the way we picked up some new trip species, including Western Kingbirds, which sang from their perches on communication wires. We stopped to watch Cliff Swallows collect mud from a roadside puddle and carry it to nest-building sites on a structure called Stonehenge II. This is a local landmark, constructed by a rancher who found boulders on his property reminiscent of the ancient European original. His efforts certainly seemed appreciated by the large group of Cliff Swallows nesting there.

Driving closer to Kerr WMA, we noted the beauty of limestone outcroppings along the Guadalupe. In one massive wall of rock, hundreds more Cliff Swallows flew wide circles into and out of nest sites in the crevices there. We got out of our vehicles and birded promising spots along our route, sighting Painted Bunting, Lesser Goldfinch and Black-chinned hummingbirds. Cave Swallows congregated and peeked out from nests down under a small bridge crossing. Wildflowers including mexican hat and antelope-horn milkweed dotted the roadsides.

We turned onto the entrance road to the Bobcat Pasture section of Kerr WMA, parked and walked back along the road. The habitat here was drier, with desert plants interspersed with various shrubs and small trees. Many areas had foliage reaching down to the ground, providing ideal nesting conditions for Black-capped Vireo. We looked and listened for this species. Field and Rufous-crowned Sparrows were present, as well as Summer Tanager. Sure enough, the Black-capped Vireo appeared! A male was heard singing and was soon seen, with his female companion nearby. The two birds foraged in shrubs very near our roadside viewing spot, repeatedly coming out into the open atop branches. With Tony’s help, we had seen two important trip target birds before lunch!

We birded the fields and brush for a few additional species. Butterflies, including Orange Sulphur, Reakirt’s Blue and Duskywing added interest in this area. We headed out to other Kerr WMA areas, stopping next at an idyllic spring-fed wet area. Spotted Sandpiper and Black-chinned Hummingbird were seen here, and some in our group got fleeting looks at a Green Kingfisher that fled down the waterway. At the main entrance area of Kerr WMA, we birded fields alongside the headquarters buildings. Vermilion Flycatcher frequented the area. A female Vermilion perched on a fence and gave us an opportunity to study its field marks, less distinctive than those of the male. Lark and Clay-colored Sparrows bathed in the water of a shallow trough, and preened in nearby trees.

Next we visited an open area with a pond and low-cut fields. Here a Northern Waterthrush walked the pond edge, and a group of American Pipits worked the ground nearby. A Peregrine Falcon flew overhead and two Hutton’s Vireos, uncommon for the area, were observed in a nearby grove of trees. We birded old farm fields, checking the barn and small outbuildings for owls, finding none. A pleasant walk out into one field ended our Kerr WMA birding, and we left the area for lunch at “Whattaburger” in Ingram.

Back on the road by 2:00pm, Tony escorted us to the Heart of the Hills Fisheries Research Center near Mountain Home, TX. An expansive open area here was made up of numerous large rectangular pools, separated by grassy berms. We walked along these rises, searching each impoundment for waterbirds. While few low water areas appropriate for shorebirds were found, we did encounter Green Heron. Passerines drew our attention as they made themselves apparent in the surrounding trees. We identified Yellow-throated Warbler and Yellow-throated Vireo, and got clear looks at a rare migrant for the area, Olive-sided Flycatcher. The ubiquitous Scissor-tailed Flycatchers caught our attention as they flew low over the impoundments and came down in the grasses nearby. Savannah Sparrows also worked the grasses. A wooded rise that was a natural boundary on one side of the fishery was the nesting site for Common Raven. We were able to hear the young nestlings’ begging calls from the trees there. As we looked upward above this hilly area, we noticed many Turkey vultures in flight, and searched among them for something different. Soon we were identifiying other raptors. A Zone-tailed Hawk flew among the vultures, and a Sharp-shinned Hawk and Peregrine Falcon flew over. A Red-Shouldered Hawk carrying a snake was an especially entertaining sighting. Dozens of Mississippi Kites streamed over, adding to the much-appreciated raptor spectacle above our heads. At 3:30pm we decided to head out toward Tony’s place of work, a camp in the area. As we drove the fishery exit road, Yellow-headed Blackbirds were sighted in the trees beside a small pond, adding another trip species.

We drove past Ingram Lake, and vehicle brakes came to an almost screeching stop when gulls were spotted over the water. It was a small flock of Franklin’s Gull, a county record, according to Tony! Entering the Sierra Vista/Rio Vista Camp where Tony had worked, we visited some animals and birds kept there. Hip-hop the kangaroo accepted our handouts happily. Though the peacock, Golden Pheasant and Northern Bobwhite were captive, we enjoyed this opportunity to see them “up close and personal.” We said our good-byes to Tony here, needing to make progress toward our lodging for the night. We had had a wonderfully successful and enjoyable day of birding in Hill Country, thanks to his terrific guidance and expertise!

We drove the highways to Neal’s Lodge, had dinner there by 6:00pm, and headed out for an evening adventure at Concan’s Frio Bat Cave. Here we walked up a small hill and found ourselves peering into the mouth of a large cave. We listened to a brief interpretive talk about the history of the cave, and learned about Mexican Free-tailed Bats, the cave’s inhabitants. We got a chance to view a bat up close, one of millions that dwell within the cave. We birded the area as the sun set and we waited for the bats to emerge. An Eastern Phoebe hawked for insects near the cave opening. Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks circled above, also waiting for the bats to fly. As dusk settled in, the bats emerged in ever increasing numbers. Hundreds and hundreds streamed in a long ribbon across the sky. Hawks dove into the mass of bats, as we watched them hunt these these animals as prey. We watched this amazing natural spectacle for a long time, and still bats continued to fly from the cave. We returned to the lodge for the night and compiled our checklist of birds for this busy day. With close to 100 species, we had certainly made up for lost time.

Click here for Tony's report of our day.

Day 3 Wednesday April 26th

On our third day of Texas birding we were up and at breakfast by 6:30am, and out onto Neal’s Lodge trails by 7:00am. A Rufous-capped Warbler had been seen here, and we would seek this species while birding the general area. We first searched a shrubby area, finding Olive Sparrow. The Rufous-capped had frequented a feeding area with a drip, so we stationed ourselves there for about an hour’s time. Birds visiting the feeder as we watched included Long-billed Thrasher, Indigo Bunting, Bewick’s Wren, Black-chinned and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds, and White-throated Sparrow. A Yellow-breasted Chat flew into the adjacent wooded area. A number of Mississippi Kites streamed overhead. Giving up on the warbler watch, we headed to another dripper feeding station at the “cattle guard” area of Neal’s. Here we saw Lincoln’s and Clay-colored Sparrow, Verdin, Pine Siskin, and White-crowned Sparrow. A deep call from the brush was recognized by Art as Greater Roadrunner; though we did not see the bird, we confirmed this ID by listening to Bert’s iPod recording of the call. We walked the paths at Neal’s, adding a few species to our trip list, then headed out to make progress toward our next destination.

We ate lunch in Uvalde and arrived near 1pm at the Uvalde National Fish Hatchery. In the parking lot area, Kingbirds perched on the wires. One appeared brighter than the more common Western Kingbird, and Connie recognized its song as that of Couch’s Kingbird. Along with the bird’s field marks, recordings of the bird’s song helped us confirm ID. Impoundments at the hatchery held various waterbirds. We sighted Long-billed Dowitchers, Least Sandpiper, Pied-billed and, more surprising, a Least Grebe. Ducks included Cinnamon Teal, Blue-winged Teal, Northern Shoveler, and Black-bellied Whistling Duck. Bullock’s Oriole was seen in surrounding trees. We birded the hatchery until 2:00pm and headed toward Del Rio. Here we visited Laguna de Plata Birdwatching Area. In the marsh here we were treated to views of shorebirds and ducks, adding Baird’s Sandpiper and Green-winged Teal to our trip list. Next we birded a series of duck ponds in the Del Rio area. While these required tricky parking maneuvers along busy roadsides, as well as peering through thick brush in some areas, we were able to overcome obstacles and find some interesting birds. These included Hooded Oriole, Double-crested Cormorant, Common Moorhen, and Greater White-fronted Goose. A Great Kiskadee perched in a tree alongside one pond and called out its unmistakable name for us to hear. Art and Ann got the best looks of a Ringed Kingfisher that fled across another pond. Bert drove us up and down the road in an attempt to re-find the bird so that the rest of us could improve our fleeting glance at it; but the kingfisher did not show itself again. Connie did periscope duty, popping up through the sunroof to get a look over the hedges obstructing another pond – but no additional species were found tucked in there.

As a final destination for the day, we took a short drive down River Road. Here Connie saw a blob in a tree that proved to be a Harris Hawk, the first of our trip, and a good last bird the day. We checked into our Del Rio hotel, completed our checklist, and ended the day with a fun happy hour and dinner at a local steakhouse.

Day 4 Thursday April 27th

Today would be our travel day to Big Bend, with birding destinations along the way. We had breakfast in our hotel, and were on the road by 7:00am. Our first stop was Amistad National Recreation Area. Along the entrance road we heard Northern Bob-white and had additional oriole sightings. Heavy winds challenged us as we scanned the huge reservoir from numerous points along the water’s edge. New birds included Forster’s and Least Terns, Canvasback, and American Coot. At a scrubby desert area, Bert had us out of the car “habitat-birding,” as he would occasionally suggest. His suggestions usually lead to something good, as we found out here. Art soon heard a birdsong and ID’d it as Cassin’s Sparrow. The faint but undeniable sound led us across the road, and we were soon all getting looks at this species as it hopped up on cactus plants. We also picked up Cactus Wren, Northern Mockingbird and more Clay-colored Sparrows. At one point we sighted roadkill which had enticed vultures and a beautiful Harris Hawk down to the ground. In a brushy spot, Art ID’d the busy song of the Bell’s Vireo. We saw the bird well, and soon were all familiar with its song too, hearing it numerous times throughout the day. Amistad also gave us our first trip Black-crowned Night-herons and Great Blue Heron. Great-tailed Grackles were common. In a picnic area adjacent to the reservoir, we got very close looks at Bronzed Cowbird, admiring its distinctive red eye. Finally we stopped at the Amistad Dam, where we could see species on both the US and Mexican side. The serious listers among us were mentally tallying Mexico birds!

We headed further south and west, and reached the gorge at the Pecos River. We stopped to enjoy the expansive views and look for birds along the gorge. A Canyon Wren entertained us here, singing its descending song and coming up and perching under the gorge bridge. We drove into Langtry Texas and had a picnic lunch at 12:30. For a brief history lesson, we visited the Jersey Lily, the historic site where Judge Roy Bean presided as “the law west of the pecos” and ran his bar establishment. We learned about the judge at the visitor center and “stepped up to the bar” in the Jersey Lily. Outside the historic site there is a desert botanic garden, and we birded here before leaving Langtry. Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Bewick’s Wren and Hooded Oriole were present, and White-crowned Sparrows foraged at a grassy edge. Our best sighting here was Scott’s Oriole, in the desert scrub adjacent to the garden. Back on the road, we made several “habitat” stops along the route toward Marathon. These stops rewarded us with Cassin’s Kingbird, Yellow-rumped Warbler (Audubon’s) and great looks at Vesper Sparrow and Greater Roadrunner.

We arrived near the entrance sign to Big Bend National Park, excited about reaching a major destination of our trip. Birding the desert habitat around this sign, we saw Pyrrhuloxia and Black-tailed Gnatcatcher. We listened to the song of the gnatcatcher and compared its field marks to the Blue-gray, our familiar gnatcatcher back home. We drove into Big Bend, seeing Scaled Quail running along the road. We drove higher and higher in elevation, admiring the ever more imposing Chisos Mountain landscape as we approached the park proper. We checked in and ate dinner in the lodge restaurant at 6:00pm, watching Say’s Phoebe fly and perch on the outside veranda. On that first evening in the park, we watched a beautiful sunset over the Window Trail, with its open window-like area between two mountains.

Day 5 Friday April 28th

Breakfast at Big Bend is offered at 7:00am, and we had our car packed for the day’s expedition and were at the lodge restaurant as it opened. After eating, a stop at a gas station and the main park visitor center had us sighting some new trip birds. Curve-billed Thrasher perched out in the open near the gas station, and Green-tailed Towhee foraged in the scrub nearby. Blue-throated Hummingbird gave us fleeting looks at the visitor center and Common Yellowthroat was present in the area. We drove next to Sam Neal Ranch to check this possible wet oasis for birds. At the Sam Neal Ranch, the well was the historic source of water, but Texas draught had left it dry now. We walked the trail there and were able to find Black-and-White Warbler, Verdin, Yellow-breasted Chat, and Ash-throated Flycatcher.

We headed to Blue Creek Canyon, arriving there at 9:45am. Here we would walk deep into the canyon searching for Lucifer Hummingbird and Gray Vireo, two of our target species. We heard Canyon Wren as we started down the trail. Black-throated Sparrow sang its melodious song and perched up on green ocotillo stems in the sun. Ash-throated Flycatcher was present in numbers. We marveled at the desert habitat and the canyon rock formations, carved by time and weather into various interesting shapes. As the day grew hotter and hotter, we considered the difficulties faced by families who historically settled the Big Bend area and attempted to make lives here. Bert ID’d a Varied Bunting up on one canyon slope and worked to get us all on the bird. We stopped at each area we found with blooming flowers, in hopes of finding a foraging Lucifer; but we had no luck with this. Eventually, though, we began hearing a slow Vireo song, and Art ID’d it as possible Gray Vireo. We worked hard and were successful in seeing the bird and confirming its identification. As we walked the path back we recognized the song more than once, identifying a few more Gray Vireos along the trail.

Our next stop was Cottonwood Campground, where we bought lunch in the store and birded this traditional area for warblers and other songbirds. Some of the frozen sandwiches were not quite thawed, and Ann and Connie used solar energy on the hood of the hot vehicle to thaw their lunch. After eating, we birded the campground in increasingly windy but hot conditions. We saw some valuable trip firsts, including Western Tanager, Black-headed Grosbeak, Western Wood-Pewee, a female Summer Tanager, and Lucy’s Warbler. Cowbirds, Chipping Sparrows and Blue Grosbeaks foraged in numbers in shaded grass. At the campground ampitheater, we saw Yellow Warbler in the shrubs and White-throated Swift overhead. An ice cream break took us back to the campground store. From the porch there, Karl watched vultures flying overhead and recognized a distant Zone-tailed Hawk among them!

We headed back to the lodge, bought breakfast and lunch for the next day’s long hike, and had dinner at 5:30pm. We drove out to Dugout Well where we heard an Elf Owl calling from near a hole in a snag. Checking the brush in the area, Bert sighted a MacGillivray’s Warbler, but we were unable to get this skulking bird to reappear for the rest of our group. We then drove to Rio Grande Village for some evening birding, arriving there at 7:30pm. We stopped along the road at an area sign-posted as a Common Black Hawk nesting site. Peering into the trees, we found some old empty nests but could not see the hawks. Bert walked further down the road, past the posted area, and found a Common Black Hawk perched out in the open on a large branch. We all got wonderful looks at this handsome bird. At the road’s end in a grove of trees, we searched for a Gray Hawk nest, but were unsuccessful. Then, as we stood in the road near our car, we saw two Gray Hawks, flying circles overhead! We watched for a few minutes as they drifted farther and farther away.

We birded the Rio Grande campground next, walking the boardwalk over a marsh there. The night became increasingly windy, and we saw no new species; we searched for Western Screech Owl in the area but were unsuccessful. We ended our day by stopping on the road in the dark, turning off all lights and power in the car and getting out under the sky. Looking in every direction, no artificial light, not even the glow of a distant town, could be seen. We marveled at the remoteness of our location and the stark beauty of nighttime in the desert of Big Bend.

Day 6 Saturday April 29th

This was it! Today would be out hike to find the Colima Warbler, a life bird sought by every member of our group. We had planned an early departure, taking advantage of the coolest hours of the day for our hike up the challenging Laguna Meadows Trail. We were out and on the trail by 6:20am. It was an uncharacteristically cool (53 degrees), breezy morning. With breakfast, lunch and lots of water in tow, we hiked in the dark at first, using flashlight beams to help us find footing. As we made progress upward, the morning sun rose over the top of the canyon, revealing the rocky canyon walls and the surrounding desert habitat. We began finding birds along the trail, including many Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, Spotted Towhee and noisy Mexican Jays, some of which seemed almost tame in their willingness to perch low and allow close scrutiny. The landscape changed as we reached higher elevations, with oak and juniper thickets gaining prominence over the lowland desert plants. This was looking like potential Colima territory. We arrived at the area of repeated switchbacks in the trail, and observed a Townsend’s Warbler flitting among the shrubs there. Then the song we all had studied the night before was heard – the Colima Warbler was nearby! Sure enough, its silhouette could be seen as it foraged among the small trees overhanging the canyon slope. We each jockeyed for a position that would allow a look at the bird, and all were able to get satisfying views, allowing positive visual identification. We all had our lifer Colima! A self-congratulatory group hug ensued, as we celebrated this pivotal success for our Texas birding trip.

We had now met our goal of hiking as high on the trail as was required to see this bird, but decided to climb higher, to bird the trail to Laguna Meadow. We turned a bend onto the next switchback and heard another Colima singing! This bird provided even better looks, as it foraged near eye level in a more open, partially sunlit shrub along the trail. “Killer looks” had now been had by all, a two-Colima day! We were energized for our further hike up the trail. We climbed upward onto Laguna Meadows, passing among typical high elevation vegetation, including alligator spruce and manzanita. From the flatter surface of the meadow we searched among a few blooming cacti for possible hummingbirds, finding none. Art recognized a buzzy distant song as that of the Black-chinned Sparrow. We scanned over the slopes beyond the meadow for this bird, not finding it. This cool, windy morning had few songbirds out in the open on the meadow. We took time to enjoy the scenery and take photos, and decided to head back down the way we had come. Our return hike rewarded us with a few more birds, including Acorn Woodpeckers performing their typical antics in the trees. A House Wren foraged in leaf litter, and a Swainson’s Thrush was seen in a shaded woody area. An at-first-unnoticed rattlesnake in the trail, at close range to Connie’s next footstep, created a bit of non-bird entertainment at one point. Screams were heard, but happily, no first aid was required (by the snake or Connie). We later confirmed that this had been a western diamondback.

We made multiple attempts at finding the Black-chinned Sparrow whenever we reached and area of open desert hillside, but we remained unsuccessful. Finally we returned to the trailhead; we had completed our Colima adventure. After a brief break in our lodge rooms we headed out for some afternoon birding. We looked for shorebirds at a sewage treatment area near the Basin Campground, but found it under construction and mostly dry. We went on to the Panther Junction Visitor Center to look for the Blue-throated Hummingbird, which some of us had not yet seen. Finding only House Sparrow and Black-chinned hummers, we left. At Dugout Wells, we tried to re-find the MacGillivray’s Warbler, but were unsuccessful with this also. Not wanting to range much farther before dinner, we decided to return to the lodge for the remainder of the afternoon.

We met at the lodge restaurant for a 5:00pm dinner, after which we headed to Rio Grande Village. This bright, calm evening seemed much more likely to provide bird sightings than our last night’s attempt. We drove slowly along the area posted for the Common Black Hawk, but did not see that bird again. A Coyote walked along the roadside ahead of us, giving us a new trip mammal sighting. In the grove of trees at one end of the road, we found Vermilion Flycatcher, Chipping and Vesper Sparrow, Say’s Phoebe and Blue Grosbeak. One side of the grove had a hedgerow that opened onto a pocket of tall grass. We recognized the blue color and other field marks of Lazuli Bunting among the birds there. We enjoyed watching a number of these birds perch on the tips of blades of grass and flit around this area in the evening sunlight. Next we drove to the other end of the road for another search in the Rio Grande Campground area. We walked the marsh boardwalk again, encountering men fishing as we identified Common Yellowthroat in the phragmites-like grass there. We heard Least Bittern calling, though they remained concealed within the marsh. At the far end of the short boardwalk, a dirt trail led up a rise. We decided to go up to see if views into the marsh could be had from above. Walking up, we encountered a Verdin at its nest, woven onto a sapling along the trail. Up top we reached a wide flat area, with hills rising higher beyond. Marsh below and hills above, we decided to look from here – we had climbed high enough for one day! Now we looked down over what we could see was a more expansive area of marsh. Numerous Yellow-rumped Warblers (Audubon’s) flew over the tall grasses. As we walked among sun-dried cactus and low desert plants, a group of Lesser Nighthawks flew into the area and circled below us. We listened to their calls and watched them fly wide loops over the marsh, with their wings handsomely lit up by the low-angled evening sun. As dusk settled in, we returned down the short trail, hearing coyotes calling from the hills in the distance. Bats now flew over the small marsh impoundments as we walked back to the campground.

Reports of Western Screech Owl had been had from the campground in years past, and though we searched for a time, the habitat just did not seem promising for this species. On Bert’s suggestion, we returned to the grove of trees at the other end of the village to try there. Sure enough we soon heard at least three of these owls calling, each from a different direction. We walked across the village road toward the closest call and slowly approached a few tall trees. While it sounded distant, a scan of the area with a light soon revealed a Western Screech in a nearby tree. The owl perched down on its breast and belly out in the open on a branch and continued calling, seemingly unaffected by our observation. We enjoyed the bird’s muffled calls, watching its entire body twitch with each phrase.

Now it had become dark, and we headed back toward the lodge. As we drove the road through Big Bend, the headlights lit upon a large bird in the road, a Great Horned Owl! The bird flew into the desert along the roadside and perched for a few moments up on a cactus. We admired this familiar species, happy to have a third owl species for our day’s birding list. We drove on, encountering many jackrabbits and desert cottontails scooting across the road, and presumed that these species were likely frequent prey for that big owl we had just seen. We decided to stop again and experience the dark desert environment. We did some impromptu star-gazing, and, with the help of a birding scope, viewed Saturn and two of its moons. Happy after another successful Texas day, we returned to the lodge to complete our day’s list and settle in for the night.

Day 7 Sunday April 30th

This would be our last Big Bend day, and we had decided to try and bird for local species not yet encountered. We were up to the lodge at 7:00am for breakfast and then out onto the Window Trail. Not long after commenting that it would be nice to add Rock Wren to our list today, we were met by one, working along a low rock wall right at the trail head! We watched this handsome pale gray bird forage among the crevices before we proceeded onto the trail. We hiked approximately 2 ½ miles, to a spot from where there were reports of Lucifer Hummingbird feeding at a flowering agave plant. We spotted numerous species along the way, including Violet-green Swallows, Scott’s Oriole, Gray Vireo, and Rufous-capped Sparrow. This trail revealed itself to be a challenge similar to the Laguna Meadow Trail the day before, but with most of the uphill trial to be on our return trip. We walked lower and lower on the hike out, encountering ever more dramatic scenery as we went. A few small cacti were in bloom along the trail, but dry conditions had prevented the normal amount of desert flowering. We searched for Crissal Thrasher in dry creekbeds, but did not find it.

Finally we approached the area deep in the canyon where the hummingbird had been seen. A small group of hopeful birders had gathered along one slope of the canyon, which was very rocky and narrow here. All eyes were trained on a single agave plant on the top of the opposite wall of the canyon. “Operation Lucifer-watch” would require sitting, watching and waiting. Mountain-goat style, Art climbed to a high rock perch fit for the task at hand. The rest of us found equally uncomfortable, though lower, rock seating. The hummingbird was reportedly sporadic in its appearance. We watched that agave. A Blue-throated Hummingbird came to the plant, a happy sighting for those in our group who had not yet had good looks at one. This bird returned at frequent intervals to feed. A Canyon Towhee sang from the top of the canyon. We watched and waited. A Cordilleran Flycatcher was also present, returning for repeated visits to fly-catch insects around the flower. We waited and watched. It got hotter and hotter as the sun rose and moved across the sky, encroaching little by little on us in our viewing area. Finally a hummingbird flitted close by, not up on the agave, but in front of us at eye level. It flew into a shrubby plant growing on the oppostie slope. It was a male Lucifer Hummingbird! It flitted quickly up and over the slope and out of sight. Then a small hummingbird appeared at the agave, only to be immediately expelled by the Blue-throated who apparently had been sitting in wait for any intruders. Had the hummer been our same Lucifer? The expulsion had happened too quickly to allow an ID.

Not everyone in our group had gotten a look at the Lucifer. We waited for it to return. After a time, another small hummingbird approached the agave. From its long curved bill and buffy underparts, we ID’d it as a female Lucifer. Everyone got to see this bird. The Blue-throated Hummingbird would not tolerate other hummers at the plant for very long. Though we waited a bit for the male Lucifer to reappear, we did not get another sighting of it. We decided to start our uphill climb back. As we experienced the hot desert afternoon, Bert regaled us with western songs about “cool, cool water,” played on his iPod. We reached the dry creekbed on our return trek and tried again for the Crissal Thrasher. This time we got it! At least two of the birds were present, and perched up in a desert shrub for us to see. As Bert walked the creekbed, a small bird flushed. Seconds later a small bird flew past Connie at eye level. It was a MacGillivray’s! Ann spotted the bird as it flew into a bush, but it did not stay long, and flew down the creekbed under cover again. We were not able to get on the warbler again, but had gotten fleeting looks, enabling ID. We completed our hike back, with Art and Bert taking the longer trail back to the car. (such gallant knights!) Connie, Ann and Karl took a shorter exit to the Basin Campground to await them. Near the end of our hike, a shady spot offered the three of us a cool spot to rest. We were about to decide what tall tale of a fictitious bird sighting we could tease the other two with once we met again. At that point a Hermit Thrush appeared in the brush on the opposite side of the trail. A new trip species! No fibs necessary, we had a true sighting to report. Art and Bert picked us up at the campground and we all returned to the lodge for a well-deserved rest.

As we prepared to meet for dinner, Ann went out onto the balcony of their room, saw a bird and called Connie out to see it. A gray bird alternately perched and hawked in characteristic flycatcher style from the trees. Each time it set down on a branch, its tail bobbed. It was a Gray Flycatcher, another new trip species! Knowing the others would want to see it, Connie walked up to Karl and Bert’s room (up another hill!) to report the sighting. This was the only way to alert them, as there were no phones at Big Bend, no cell phone towers, and no internet access from lodge rooms. Due to logistical lodging maneuvers, Art was in the process of checking into a room and not in the general area at the time. Karl and Bert proceeded to Ann and Connie’s room, leaving behind a note stating “Gray Flycatcher in the ladies room, now!” Now, we’re not sure exactly how Art interpreted that note, or where he went first, but eventually he was seen running excitedly in the direction of our room. Though we had not realized it, this was a life bird for him! Luckily the flycatcher was still in the vicinity and Art saw the behaviors and field marks he needed to confirm its identification. Then it was back up the hill to Karl and Bert’s room for happy hour. This had required more running around than we would have liked, after our exertion from earlier in the day, but seeing this species certainly made our happy hour all that much happier!

Our evening birding would be devoted to getting visual ID on the Elf Owl at Dugout Well, and we proceeded to the site of the snag there after dinner. At dusk, a number of other birders had gathered in the area and scopes were aimed toward the hole in the snag. We began hearing Elf Owl calls, and an owl began periodically showing itself at the snag opening. After two or three times of positioning itself at the opening and then returning into the snag, the owl appeared one last time and flew out. We all waited expectedly for a second owl to come to replace it, thinking there were likely eggs to be attended to by a second parent bird. No exchange took place. As we stared at the snag opening, a car approached and a number of birders exited, saying “we think you have the wrong hole.” We explained that an owl had just been seen, and they reasoned that perhaps the snag was a roost site. They told us that there was another hole in an adjacent tree from which they had heard nestlings begging the previous night. We all did 180 degree turns toward the tree indicated, repositioned scopes as recommended, and looked toward a hole just beneath an elbow in a large tree. Sure enough there was owl activity here. An adult Elf Owl was seen entering then leaving the nest hole. Young owls called from within. The parent owls were seen positioned on various branches of the tree over the next 20 minutes or so. As it got darker and darker, we realized it was going to be too difficult to observe the birds further, so we called it a night, happy with our owl experience. We returned to the lodge to do our day’s list for our final day in Big Bend.

Day 8 Monday April May 1st

After breakfast at 7:00am, we packed the car and drove the exit road out of Big Bend. We caught last glimpses and made final exclamatory statements about the beauty of the Chisos Mountains as we drove off, not knowing when or if we would have the chance to see this amazing part of the our country again. As had become our routine, we stopped at various places along the road to “habitat bird.” At one of these stops a surprisingly visible MacGillivray’s Warbler provided us with great looks as it flitted low in roadside brush. We drove to a park in the Marathon Basin, known as “The Post.” Tall trees provided a shady picnic and recreation spot for local residents, and a pond and oak grove drew birds to this locality. We walked the grounds and saw a number of passerine species, including many Wilsons’ Warblers, American Pipit, American Redstart, Cassin’s Kingbird, Townsend’s Warbler, and Summer Tanager.

We had lunch in Marathon, and drove the streets checking neighborhood bird feeders. At one home we observed Black-chinned and Ruby-throated, but saw no other species. We drove on to a prairie dog colony in Marathon, hoping to see Burrowing Owls that had been reported in the area. Making various stops in the habitat, we scanned the colony repeatedly, but found no owls.

We drove toward the Davis Mountains, making various stops. We observed Eastern Meadowlarks, studying and discussing the field marks of eastern vs western, and the Lilian’s variety of this species. We saw Horned Lark in a field where we had stopped to get closer looks at Pronghorn. As we approached closer to the Davis Mountain area, a roadside pond offered us a chance to see Great Blue Heron, Pied-billed Grebe, and a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. By late afternoon we arrived in Davis Mountain State Park where we would spend the next two nights. We checked in at the Indian Lodge and went to check park feeder stations. We had interesting looks at White-breasted Nuthatch, White-crowned and other sparrows, and Summer Tanager, but no new trip species. We investigated possible sighting locations for Montezuma Quail, which would be our main target species here. We were told to watch campground roads, a specific feeding station and, basically, anywhere else.

We had dinner at the lodge restaurant and decided to divide and conquer, staking out two areas after dinner to watch for quail. Ann and Bert went to the feeding station while Art, Karl and Connie birded the campground road. Cassin’s Kingbirds were common and their calls were heard repeatedly throughout the area. Hermit Thrushes appeared in campsites and Black-headed Grosbeaks sang in the trees, but we did not get any looks at Montezuma Quail that night. We drove the park road in the dark before turning in for the night. A Poorwill suddenly appeared in the road just in front of our vehicle. It hawked insects low in the road, alternately flying up and across the road to one side or the other, then landing in the road again. Bert skillfully maneuvered the headlights as the bird’s direction changed. We all got good looks at this infrequently seen species and enjoyed watching its feeding behavior. Karl did periscope duty this time, attempting to photograph the Poorwill while standing with his head out the sunroof. We completed our list back at the lodge and got some sleep for our Montezuma Quail hunt the next day.

Day 9 Tuesday May 2nd

We gathered for breakfast shortly before the restaurant’s opening at 7:00am. Our original plan was to eat and then devote the entire day, if needed, to staking out quail sighting areas until we had seen the bird. However, Bert suggested that, since the restaurant served breakfast until 10:00am, it might be advisable to drive the park roads early. If we didn’t see the quail, we could always eat before 10:00am and then get back out birding again. We grabbed quick cups of coffee from the guest lobby, a few granola bars, and were into the car. We drove at snails pace through the campground area, checking every bending shadow and moving blade of grass that suggested the possibility of approaching Montezumas. No quail appeared for us. We drove up to a higher elevation sightseeing trail and scenic viewing area. In the parking area at the top, Bert slowly rotated the car to turn and go back downhill. All of a sudden he brought the vehicle to a complete stop, yelling “Straight ahead!!! Out the front window of the car, where the asphalt met the grasses, was a small dusty area. A group of Montezuma Quail gathered there! Some stood watching while others took dust-baths! This was an amazing out-in-the-open look at a number of these birds. We could appreciate their clown-like faces and brightly patterned plumage as they stood or wriggled their bodies in the dust. We watched in amazed appreciation at this rare chance to observe these birds. Karl slowly took position out the sunroof again, and was able to get photographic documentation of our special Montezuma Quail sighting. And it was only 7:15am!! We could go eat breakfast and spend the day birding the area casually, as our major goal for the day had already been achieved!

We spread the word as we passed the feeding station on our way down to the lodge, alerting other birders to the quails’ whereabouts. We had a happy breakfast celebration and were on the road by 8:45 to check other spots in the area. We drove to the McDonald Observatory grounds, where we saw Western Bluebirds and other songbirds. At the Lawrence E. Wood picnic area we walked the grounds among various trees and shrubs, adding Plumbeous Vireo, Least Flycatcher, Dark-eyed Junco to our trip list. A quick return to the observatory for a pit-stop and we were on the road to Fort Davis for lunch, and then to Lake Balmorhea. As we passed farm fields along the way, we searched among cattle for blackbirds or other new species. At one point Ann called out “Scaled Quail on a bale!” We laughed at the rhyming location of the bird but looked toward the hay bale. The bird was gone. Someone said it had “baled” from the bale, someone else added that we’d “failed” to see it. Five poetic birders were getting a bit punchy at this point. Things turned serious again when a lump in a tree off one side of the road presented us with a hawk identification challenge. Since the bird was distant, we got out and set up a scope on the roadside to check field marks. We saw an incomplete breast bib and streaked underparts; a juvenile Swainson’s Hawk. In a roadside pond we found a group of American Avocets, a much-appreciated shorebird species.

At Lake Balmorhea, we drove across the dam and looked into the water from various vantage points around the lake’s perimeter. We had our first trip sightings of Clark’s and Western Grebes. Least and Forster’s Terns flew over the lake. Ann spotted a distant Black Tern and we all got scope views of it flying and diving into the lake. Wilson’s Phalaropes in breeding plumage were present in numbers. Lesser Nighthawks flew over the water, and various duck species were present. While observing a flock of Franklin’s Gulls, we saw one individual with the rosy pink cast that is sometimes seen on the breast and abdomen feathers of this species. Shorebirds here included Long-billed Dowitchers, Western, Least and Spotted Sandpiper, and Willet. Scaled Quail were common here, scurrying along the lake roads in small groups. We heard Sora calling from a concealed location in thick reeds. We left the lake at 5:00pm, and returned to the lodge for happy hour, our checklist and dinner.

After dinner, Ann, Connie, Art and Bert drove up to the McDonnald Observatory. This night was a regularly scheduled "Star Party" at the observatory. Joining about 120 other visitors, we were able to look at various celestial objects through an assortment of telescopes. A unique experience.

Day 10 Wednesday May 3rd

Following breakfast at 7:00am at the lodge restaurant, we left Fort Davis State Park, stopping at the feeder before leaving. There we observed Bewick’s Wren, Blue Grosbeak, Lesser Goldfinch and Pine Siskins among the feeder birds. Campers walked down the road saying there were quail behind the adjacent building. We walked over and were able to catch fleeting glimpses of Montezuma Quail as they foraged in tall grass and trees behind a campground building. Yesterday’s views had been better, but we now had two sightings of these birds on our trip! By 8:30am we were on the road to Balmorhea State Park. This area, supplied by the San Soloman springs, has a swimming pool, and is the site of a project aimed at recreating a desert wetland. We saw Greater Roadrunner and Song Sparrow, but the marsh area reported to hold wetland birds proved unproductive. We did look through viewing windows at the Comanche Springs pupfish and Pecos gambusia fish that are benefiting from the wetland project there.

We headed toward our next destination, Imperial Reservoir near Grandfalls, Texas. As we approached along a desert road, Ann suddenly called out that she had spotted a Burrowing Owl! Bert turned our vehicle around, and we went back to see the bird. It was sitting out in the open up on a fence post. We wondered where the bird might find a burrow in this desert scrub area, but appreciated the opportunity to observe it and add the species to our trip list. We proceeded on to the reservoir, and were treated to a large gathering of waterbirds. Hundreds of Wilson’s Phalaropes congregated along the bank. Shorebirds included both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Black-necked Stilt, Snowy Plover, and Avocets. Ducks included Lesser Scaup, Redhead, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Ruddy, Ring-necked and Fulvous Whistling Duck. Along the reservoir roads we saw Greater Roadrunner, Curve-billed Thrasher and Pyrrhuloxia. We left Imperial, happy to have had the opportunity to bird this area.

Fort Lancaster, off route #10, had been our back-up site for Gray Vireo. Though we had already seen this species, we decided to explore there on our way to Junction, TX, our destination for this night’s lodging. We birded this old Civil War fort area, appreciating how its high elevation would allow patrolling of the road below. We were not able to find Gray Vireo in the area, but saw a Hutton’s Vireo in the small trees. We arrived in the town of Junction at 4:45pm. We held our final trip happy hour, toasting our great trip successes. We had seen most of our targeted birds, and had enjoyed sightings of 230 Texas bird species. Our celebration culminated at a local Mexican restaurant, where beer and cilantro provided just the right finishing touches to our Texas adventures.

Day 11 Thursday May 4th

We had breakfast in our hotel and drove to the San Antonio airport. In spite of a traffic jam, we arrived in sufficient time to allow for rental car return and check-in procedures. We left Texas on schedule at 11:30am. Our connections were on time also, and we arrived in Philadelphia by 6:00pm. At the airport Art would take a cab and Ann would be picked up by her husband. We gave goodbye hugs and final thanks for a fantastic trip. Karl and Connie went with Bert to retrieve his car and headed back to his house. The five of had wonderful birding experiences on this Texas trip. We arrived home with many great memories, already anticipating the chance to travel and bird together again in the future.