Trip Report by Connie Goldman

For this group of friends, our May 2008 birding adventure would be a North Carolina Pelagic experience. Our major target birds would be the pelagic birds of the east coast of the U.S. for this time of year. We had planned for two separate day trips to provide opportunities for sightings of our desired seabirds, with a day of Carolina land birding in between.

Day 1 - Thursday, May 29th

Our starting point was the home of Bert Filemyr in Meadowbrook PA. Connie Goldman was driven there from Churchville, PA by her husband, and dropped off just before 6:00am. Frank Windfelder, from NE Philadelphia, arrived shortly after and left his own car there. The three of us piled bags, coolers and scopes into Bert’s van and were off for coffee, and to meet Ann Scott. Ann was driven to Plymouth Meeting from Telford, PA by her husband. Here our final packing adjustments were made and the four of us were off!

Not ones to waste a long car ride, we began calling out common birds seen along our route. The trip had officially started, and we were building a list – and we wanted that Delaware Mourning Dove and American Crow on it! We made note of borders crossed and of which bird species were identified in each state. Frank’s use of the band code abbreviations to quickly document our sightings on a note pad helped a lot with this. The state listers among us would have less trouble sorting things out later.

With none but the occasional coffee/rest stop, we had soon arrived in the Maryland stretch of our southerly drive. As we sped along the highway, Frank noted a large patch of shrubbery and small, young deciduous trees. “Boy, if that’s not Prairie warbler habitat, I don’t know what is…” he said. In an instant, Bert had turned onto a convenient pull-off area there. We had window birded enough; now was a perfect opportunity to get out and check out the habitat by foot. Of course, Prairie Warbler was present here. We also picked up Eastern Phoebe, Field Sparrow, Ovenbird, Carolina Wren, Great Crested Flycatcher, Barn Swallow and others here.

Having enjoyed this break from the car, we now continued our drive, stopping periodically to bird along the way. Bert used his GPS/computer set-up to guide us toward potential patches of good habitat not far off the main road. More often than not we were rewarded with interesting finds. In dense vegetation around the corner of a country road in Maryland we heard Northern Bob-white and saw Hairy Woodpecker. In a patch of Virginia woods Bert spotted both Baltimore and Orchard Oriole coming over to investigate the chatter of Carolina Chickadees and Tufted Titmice. In another patch, we found Pine Warbler, and Yellow-throated Warbler. As we watched the latter bird flitting high above us, Connie blurted out “picky-tuk!” She was not babbling, but had heard the quiet call of Summer Tanager. That bird appeared, as well as a female Blue Grosbeak. Along side grassy fields we sighted Indigo Buntings, Bluebirds, Eastern Kingbird and Chipping Sparrows. Down a short road to a dock in Virginia, we saw water birds including Brown Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Forsters Terns, Semi-palmated Sandpiper, Willet, and gulls including Great Black-backed, Ring-billed, Herring and Laughing. At least one Herring Gull was in adult plumage, less commonly seen this time of year when most adults are at the breeding grounds.

We worked our way down through Virginia and reached the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. In the vegetation alongside the bridge entrance we were able to spot Great and Snowy Egrets. Osprey nested in the tops of trees. Pelicans flew in lines over the bay. We made a stop at Sea Gull Island for a rest stop and to bird the area and enjoy the scenery for awhile. A surprising find on the rocks around the island were small groups of Purple Sandpipers, a species we would not have expected to see here this late in the season. They perched along with a few Ruddy Turnstones and the dominant species here, Rock Pigeon. Out in the channel, commercial and U.S. Naval ships stationed at Hampton Roads passed by. Bert pointed out the helicopter deck of one ship, and we imagined his son, now in US Navy helicopter pilot training, landing there one day soon.

Finally we reached our destination state of North Carolina. We ticked off birds for this new state, including Pileated Woodpecker, Green Heron, Eastern Wood-Pewee and Brown-Headed Nuthatch. Eventually we drove into the tourist area of the Outer Banks and our road was inhabited by more surf shops and crab restaurants than birds. We passed by the Wright Brothers Memorial and thought of the immense change the area has undergone since Orville and Wilbur’s days here. We crossed the causeway onto Roanoke Island and headed for our hotel in Manteo.

As we checked in, we learned that NJ Audubon had a group of birders here also. We knew there would be an official DVOC club group and other private groups of friends. So we kept our eyes peeled for familiar faces. As we began happy hour in our rooms, Bert stood in the open doorway and asked Frank, inside the room, if Don Jones would be coming to North Carolina. Frank answered with an emphatic negative. But of course, Bert had asked the question because he was looking right at Don, and Al Driscoll in the hotel parking lot! Hearing that we had gin and appetizers, Don and Al gave us time to compile our day’s birding list and then joined our happy hour. The six of us had dinner together at a restaurant in the old part of Manteo. Al regaled us with stories from the military and Attu. We headed back to our hotel for a good night’s rest.

Day 2 – Friday May 30th

We awoke at 4:30am on this morning, packed our gear and drove to the Pirates Cove Marina. From here our boat, The Country Girl, would take us out to the gulf stream for our first of two pelagic trips. As we had time to spare, we took a quick jaunt across the road to listen to the adjacent marsh. We were able to ID Marsh Wren and Seaside Sparrow there. Back at the dock, fellow travelers arrived in small groups, and soon we were greeting many birding friends and comparing trips down from the Delaware Valley area.

What can be said about the trip that ensued from here? Most of the people on board knew each other, many had birded together in the past. Many of us are fellow DVOC members who see each other on a regular basis. We spent a day of laughing, talking, and joking together and doing what we all love, birding. Sightings closer to shore included White Ibis, Black Skimmers, Least Terns, Royal Terns, Sandwich Tern, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and Brown Pelican. As we sped farther away from land, there were sightings of Northern Gannet and Wilson’s Storm-petrels. Out closer to the Gulf Stream, with the boat now slowed to “birding speed,” Wilson’s Storm-petrels hovered around the fish-oil slick being let out of the back of the boat. We had sightings of Cory’s, Greater, Sooty and Audubon’s Shearwaters. Black-capped Petrel made appearances. Storm-petrels included the Wilson’s, Band-rumped and Leach’s. A South Polar Skua and both species of jaegers put on a show. Pilot whale sightings added to the trip’s excitement.

We returned to the dock by 5:00pm, happy pelagic birders. We celebrated our sightings at happy hour in our hotel rooms, and compiled our day’s list. Dinner at a local restaurant ended our birding day.

Day 3 – Saturday May 31st

After a quick coffee-and-breakfast-to-go from the local 7-Eleven, we were off to Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. We would head to a spot known for the presence of Swainson’s Warbler, and bird the general habitat. As we drove the entrance road, we sighted Blue Grosbeak in a small tree. Northern Bob-white was heard off to the left where there was an expansive field with a marshy edge. We noticed a lone birder down a side road alongside the field, focusing his attention very low into the field. He was Step, from Colorado, a fellow birder from our previous day’s pelagic trip, and he was likely trying to get a look at that Bob-white, we thought. Deeper into the refuge we encountered its characteristic wet woodlands. Prothonotary Warblers were numerous. Pileated Woodpeckers were actively foraging among dead snags. We crossed paths with Step again; he was birding for some of the same birds we were and we invited him to follow along with us. We came upon the DVOC group birding for Swainson’s Warbler and stopped to bird with them for awhile. Though we heard the bird sing, it was distant within the woods and not coming closer to our road. We tried another spot for the warbler. We heard Yellow-billed Cuckoo and Acadian Flycatcher, and had sightings of Parula and Common Yellowthroat, but no Swainson’s. We tried various spots in the refuge and did some general birding of habitat. As we drove between two spots, a larger dark bird flew ahead of our vehicle. Seen from behind, it was at first identified as a Glossy Ibis, less expected here than White Ibis. At the end of the road, though, we came across the same bird, now perched. An Anhinga! The bird lifted up into the air and demonstrated its fanned tail and long straight bill to us as it flew overhead.

We decided to bird our way out of the refuge now. Though we had been unsuccessful in seeing the Swainson’s Warbler, we had heard its song in the wild and had appreciated the skulking behavior of this species. Frank now moved over into Step’s car to give him some company, and we drove along in two vehicles. As we passed by the marshy field this time, a small bird flew briefly up out of the vegetation and then down underneath again. It was rail-like. We got out to try and get eyes on the bird, but it did not show itself. However, Bert heard Sora call from the area the bird had landed. That had been our bird.

Our next destination was the Palmetto Peartree Preserve. We followed directions to the area of Red-cockaded Woodpecker nest trees. Here were very tall thin loblolly pines with open areas underneath. We found the woodpeckers right away! A pair of adults brought food to their nest hole repeatedly as we watched, giving us great looks in good light. Also in the preserve were Red-headed Woodpecker, Pine Warbler, Yellow-throated Warbler, Brown-headed Nuthatch, and Worm-eating Warbler. We heard Kentucky Warbler, which Ann needed Kentucky as a lifer. Though we tried for a sighting of this bird, it did not show itself.

Now with a morning of successful birding behind us, we decided to head back toward Manteo, stopping at another Alligator River access on the way. While the area was beautiful, with a kayak trail entrance and footbridge over the waterway, it was quiet, bird-wise. Bert did get a brief look at a Red-shouldered Hawk as it flew over the trees ahead of our vehicle. Back in Manteo, we had lunch at the local Subway. Now we would bird the shore habitat southward. Step would come into our vehicle with us.

We drove along the Cape Hatteras National Seashore, stopping periodically to bird the beaches. As we crossed over the Oregon Inlet, a white blob below revealed itself to be a White Pelican! Finding our first beach stops unproductive, we pulled into Bodie Island Light. From the viewing platform behind the lighthouse, we looked for birds in the ponds there. Little Blue Heron and Tricolored Heron were present. Some marsh grass and dead leaf stalks made a very impressive appearance as a Black-crowned Night-heron, but we had to throw that one back! As we walked across the campus back toward our vehicle, Connie heard birdsong from the edge of the woods. It was identified as Eastern Towhee, singing the Outer Banks variety of song.

A visit to Pea Island NWR found it fairly quiet also. We scoped the near impoundment for Dunlin, Semi-palmated Sandpipers, Willet, and Mallards. We realized our timing was off here, it being late in migration season. We continued south along the seashore as far as Rodanthe, continuing to find little more than Sanderlings and gulls. Heading back north, we continued to stop periodically. We checked roped off nesting areas, but found no lingering Piping Plovers or Least Terns on the sand. From the dunes at Oregon Inlet we saw Common and Royal Terns but few other sightings. Out of promising birding options, we forced ourselves to make a stop for ice cream before heading back over to Roanoke Island. We dropped off our friend Step at his car and said good-byes. He would be catching a plane later this day. We returned to our hotel where we enjoyed happy hour in our rooms and compiled our list for the day. Dinner at a local restaurant was next. Instead of retiring to our rooms afterward, we headed out birding again, to try for nightjars. On the entrance roads to the local attraction The Lost Colony, we heard Chuck-will’s-widow singing vigorously and at very close range. This was a fun way to end a wonderful day of birding.

Day 4 – Sunday June 1

Another 4:30am alarm got us up for our 2nd pelagic adventure. We made a quick stop at the 7-Eleven for coffee, breakfast food and any needed provisions for the boat trip. We were at the dock at Pirates Cove in advance of departure time of 5:30am. Sightings varied somewhat from the previous trip on Friday, and added Bermuda Petrel and Herald Petrel to our trip list! It was another wonderful day of sea birding with a boatful of friends.

Day 5 – Monday June 2nd

Today we would drive home; but not before just a bit more birding! We decided that one more try for the Swainson’s Warbler was in order, so we headed out at 6:30am. We grabbed breakfast to go ala7-Eleven, and drove back to Alligator River one more time. Don and Al knew another spot fort he bird and were also planning to go for it. So our two vehicles went together. Stopping at the designated spot, we soon began hearing the warbler’s song. Our focus was only momentarily re-directed when a Black Bear was seen some distance down the road, walking toward us! The bear ducked into the woods, and we peered again into the vegetation, looking for the warbler. Soon it flitted across the gravel road! Fleeting looks were had repeatedly, as the birds, at least two of them, sang and flew at intervals from one side of the road to the other. At one point Ann had one in view, perched in the vegetation; but the greenery was so dense that before the others could get on the bird it flew again. While trying for the Swainson’s, we heard other birds including Black-throated Green Warbler, Prothonotary and Prairie Warblers.

Wanting to bird habitat more, we decided to give up the hunt for better looks at this warbler, and move on. Saying goodbyes to Dona and Al, we headed away. We decided to take a slower route out of the refuge. To enhance our ability to hear above the noise of the gravel roads, three of us sat or stood out doors, while Bert drove us along. We heard and called out warblers, buntings, grosbeaks, woodpeckers. We saw one immature Cedar Waxwing. We heard Meadowlark from the field. Then Ann thought she heard an owl. We asked Bert to stop to confirm. It was a Barred Owl! Bert backed up and we got out. We saw it! The owl perched in a pine tree in plain sight and called its “who cooks….” call repeatedly. We counted this a terrific sighting with which to top off our Alligator river experience. We continued to ride the refuge roads from our window perches until we came to the main road.

Back in Manteo, we emptied out our rooms, packed up the van and began our drive north toward home. Though our return trip would be more direct, with few stops, we did re-visit Gull Island on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, to find the Purple Sandpipers gone from where we had seen them days before. One other stop was on the entrance road to Kiptopeke State Park in Virginia, just north of the bridge. Here we had a spot for Grasshopper Sparrow. As soon as we got out of the car, we heard them singing quietly in the grass. One individual perched up on a sign in plain view. Unfortunately the sign advertised “land for sale.” Hopefully enough habitat will remain to allow these sparrows to be found here in the future. We also heard Northern Bob-white here and two birds were briefly seen out in the open along a dirt road.

From here we would plan no more birding stops. For the remainder of our trip, we listened to music on Bert’s iPod. We made rest stops and a lunch stop at Subway. Bert maneuvered us around traffic snafus and we made progress toward home. We said our good-byes to Ann back at Plymouth Meeting at around 6:00pm, where her husband Mac was waiting with their car. The other three of us were back at Bert’s home before 6:30 pm. Connie’s husband was waiting there to pick her up. Frank would leave in his car left there the previous Thursday.

We all agreed we had had a successful and fun birding adventure on land and sea. More birding adventures await this group of friends in the future!